Mexican cuisine is all about expectations. If you walk into Walkermole expecting sad wheat vessels filled with mystery paste and shredded lettuce, kitchy sombreros super glued to the walls, or wait staff in bolo ties, you may be taken aback by it’s austere setting and intelligent takes on mexican cuisine. The people at Walker Mole get it.
Most people’s idea of mexican cuisine involves slimy ground beef, imitation cheddar cheese that can be fired from a low calibre gun and maybe the word “chipotle” thrown in for effect. In reality mexican cuisine is just as varied and regional as italian or spanish cuisine. Mexico owes that strong regionality to the waves of spanish and german immigrants as well as diverse native influences. Just the things mexicans do to beans are amazing, and don’t get me started on the pork.
I’ve never in my life called a mexican restaurant austere but Walkermole is just that. When you walk in your are met with an inviting bar with a plethora of different 100% agave tequilas.* The dining room was simple and not over crowded. There was a healthy lunch crowd and a cheery atmosphere.
The menu was impressive, it does well at mixing approachable mexican dishes with more regional fare.
My companion and I decided on doing a tasting flight of salsa with nachos. ** We chose the chipotle black bean, serrano chili and tomato, and the tomatillo and cactus with roasted chilies. All three were really good, I preferred the Serrano and Tomato, my companion the black bean and chipote. The tomatillo salsa verde was also great.
For my entree I chose the Panza de Puerco taco. A crispy braised pork belly with a tomatillo guajilla sauce(a slightly spicy, tart, tangy sauce), queso fresca(a softer version of feta), onions and cilantro. I am always a little hesitant to order pork belly in a restaurant, as it can be turned into shoe leather much too easily but the tequila had me at ease. The tacos also came with rice and frijoles charros(pinto beans, pork and jalapenos). The entire dish was amazing. The pork belly was done perfectly, the queso fresca brought such a beautiful creaminess which was lifted by the tomatillo sauce, onion, and cilantro. I would go there tomorrow and have it again.
In all, I feel like I need to go back…soon. I really cannot say enough about how impressed I was and I am going to go back and try more. I have a feeling that Walker Mole will end up as a mainstay of the Windsor food scene, but go now leave your expectations at the door and enjoy.
*Ok, so the tequila selection is not so austere. It’s fantastic, I could do some major damage here.
**Genius!!! This is one of the best ways I can think of to take people by the ears and showing them the variation and regionally of mexican cuisine. There are seven salsa to choose from.